Kagoshima is known as the "Naples of Japan" because it is a warm, sunny, relaxed place. There was a recent discovery that Kagoshima could have been the first place of settlement on Japan with a Jomon civilization ruins discovered that are over 10,000 years old.
Kagoshima is most known for their ruling dynasty of the Shimazu clan who ruled for over 700 years. They opened their ports to foreigners and trade (against the will of the Shogunate) and controlled most of the southern islands of Japan, including Okinawa. As a result, they had electricity and a booming western industry (by the 1850s), long before any other area of Japan. They lead the Meji restoration and in 1865, even smuggled 19 students out of Satsuma to attended classes in Singapore (foreign travel was forbidden in Japan at this time). They are considered the "Young Pioneers" of modern Japan. Here is a monument to them. Everyone gets their own monument in Kagoshima!
The 28th Shimazu leader, Terukuni, is thought to have come up with the rising sun design, or Hinomaru, of Japan's current country flag. It is a very controversial design because is was restricted to use on military banners in warring states during the 15th and 16th centuries and has strong militaristic ties. Although recognized throughout the world beginning in the 1870s, Japan did not adopt this as their national flag until 1999.
OK enough history... We checked into our little Nakazono Ryokan near City Hall for only 7800 yen per night, no food included this time. We got our own floor on the third floor so that was nice.
This is Shinichi Nakazono-san, the inn keeper of the ryokan. Very lively guy! Not sure why, but all Japanese hold up their 2 fingers like "peace" in pictures so we try to be as Japanese as possible.
Once again, sleeping on Japanese-style futons on tatami mats. Definitely the way to go in Japan! I ill never again mess around with "Western Style" hotel beds.
In case anyone was wondering, do not smoke in your bed. I though that was funny...straw mats, rice pillows, wood houses, I don't think I would anywhere in Japan with all those combustibles!
This is our little washing area, but the best part is how they converted a Japanese "squatter toilet into a western style toilet! Awesome.
Pretty sure it needs to be cleaned more though. Blech!
This is the second floor sitting area. A little outdated, but you can see the Samurai warrior armor behind Brandt.
We even have matching Kimono to wear around and relax in! Brandt likes to
make sexy" with some open chest in his Kimono.
There was a trolley that ran throughout the town and all the tracks were this beautiful green from the fresh grass. Very rare to see grass in Japan! Usually just moss, but this are is more of a sub-tropical and temperate climate so maybe that is why. Very aesthetic!
Here is Ken's favorite PINK trolley. Apparently Ken's favorite manly color is pink! :)
This is why all Japan cemeteries and memorials are so clean. Everyone is always cleaning. This memorial is for the 84 people who died building a levy to save his southeastern area from all the constant flooding. So you think, "oh that is awful that that many people died". Well everyone commits suicide here in Japan so some died from disease, BUT the first levee was destroyed by flooding the next year and those who built the first one were so ashamed by their failure that they committed Harakiri (or Sepukku)...basically suicide Samurai style. Anytime a male shames his family or brings disgrace, he may only regain grace for his family through this method of suicide in which you stick a sword though your belly and then are beheaded. Wonderful way to die. But the Japanese are such a prideful people. Then because so many people died, the ruler, Hiraka, at the time was so ashamed for the loss of so many lives that he himself committed Sepukku. Seems like a never-ending Circle of Shame to me. So this memorial is for those people who died, or rather, killed themselves in the name of Japan.
Another way to keep clean, hide cleaning supplies in trees. Looks like nature but conceals with the best of them!
We continued up our hike to the Shiroyama-koen observatory to see a good view of Mount Sakurajima (the most active volcano in Japan, second to Mount Aso).
You read about these cities in the Lonely Plant book and think it sounds so quaint when there is really 600,000 people who live here in a tight area. It is just crazy how concrete all the cities are! I'm surprised every time.
Mount Shiroyama is also known as a cat hangout. We saw at least 15-20 wild cats running about. It has nice walking paths that wrap all through the mountain. Too bad I can't have my own kitty right now! I'm just too busy. For now I will just resort to feeding the wild cats outside our back door and trying to pet the nice ones.
The backside of the mountain had yet another memorial to the Buddhist priest, Kobo Taishi, who united Kagoshima during the civil war. These statues were made because his followers normally had to go to north Kyushu to worship, but now they have something closer. I think they are just lazy! Aren't their outfits so cute? But this is not like the other red scarves, these outfits I was informed are to make the "13 Stone Buddhas" look nice.
This is one of the most famous heroes of Kagoshima. General Saigo Takamori initially lead the Meiji Restoration in 1868 but then decided the power and status of the Samurai had become too much. He then lead the civil war/Seinan Rebellion for Satsuma region in 1877 (covering battle up to 200 km away near Kumamoto Castle (which was the reason it was burnt down). His students from the Shigakko School he erected began the revolt when the government attempted to capture Saigo and destroy his western style teachings. The civil war lasted 7 months, finally ending with 300 men against the 40,000 men of the government army. Saigo defended Shiroyama area, hiding out in this cave for 5 days, then eventually attempted to retreat down the mountain. He was hit by a stray bullet and climbed into a cave to commit what else, Harakiri. The war ended after that and his shrine is the #2 tourist spot in Kagoshima.
Here is the cave where he hid out for 5 days, short guy of course since Ken is almost hitting his head on the ceiling.
Here is his statue in downtown Kagoshima.
The other thing you have to learn real quick in Japan is that there are so many stoplights to get through, that if you see one on walk and hear the "chirping", then you better run or you will have to wait a few minutes to cross again. No Jaywalking! Doesn't sound bad but when there is a light every 50 feet or so, it gets annoying. You will actually see people sprinting to make lights. Which gets me laughing every time. Ken and Connie are learning but got stuck at this light! Ken also thought the "chirping"noise that goes on walk was a bird and he would keep trying to find the bird. I have yet to see a blind person, but they sure do have a lot of precautions built in around here for the blind.
There we headed on down the main street of the "culture Zone" and along the remains of Tsurumaru Castle. They had transported tons of Koi into the moat. So beautiful!
Brandt talks to all the fishies!
As it got dark, we headed down to Dolphin port for some Chinese food. Pretty good actually! That is where we saw this perfect wedding location. For 180,000 yen, we had the dress location, everything. Connie wants to come back and get married again! That sounds pretty easy since I just spent a year and a half planning our wedding.
Sakurajima Volcano is very active and that night, there has been a small eruption so we woke to everything covered in Ash. During the fall, the winds blow from the East and our inn-keeper told us that so much ash falls, you need to carry an umbrella. I think I would get a little sick of cleaning ash all the time. Let alone, never having a clean car! Brandt would die!
Every morning clean!
Even the cemeteries are covered to protect them from the ash.
Since we didn't get food at our hotel, we headed back down to dolphin port to find some coffee at Koots. All these tents were set up on the waterfront for a flea market. Fun! But then it started to poor and they ended up canceling the event. Amid everyone hurriedly packing up, we tried to look at everything for sale and scored ourselves an Egyptian drawing on Papyrus paper for 500 yen. Sweet! I got a "foreigners discount" since they guy was from Egypt and I am obviously not from Japan. You know how I like discounts!
There was also a wedding going on at Dolphin Port so I got Connie some pictures with the cute Kimono girls!
Wet and freezing cold, we headed back to the ryokan and then took a little walk to the Tenmonkan area, which is a huge shopping district. We even went into Louis Vuitton and checked out my beautiful red patent leather purse I bought in Seoul. Beautiful! Then once again, Ken was hungry (like clockwork) so we wandered around aimlessly looking for some delicious.
Finally we decided on this sushi restaurant for rolls and Tempura. BEST rolls I have had in Japan! Almost American! Connie and Ken got this awesome pile of tempura vegetables and whatnot.
Since it was raining, we decided to head to Sengan-en (Iso-teinen) Garden when the Shimazu family resided. It was initially built in 1658 as a summer residence but remodeled in 1884 when it became their primary residence. The Kyokusui garden dates back to the 1600s and one a clear day, has backdrops of Kinko Bay and Sakurajima. Not this day.
Brandt and his dad inspect the different plants around the gardens.
There is a stream that runs through the property where they would hold "poetry parties" in which guests had to compose a haiku before the next cup of sake floated to them down the stream.
The gardens are beautiful, however, Japanese villas leave something to be desired. They all look the same and you still sit on the floor. Just more rooms to sit on the floor in. And still thin walls. If I were royalty, I would have much liked living in a castle over a villa in Japan.
On the hillside abouve the villa, was this huge rock called Sen-Jin Gan. Each letter is 11 meters long and took 3,900 workers 3 months to carve. They are Chinese characters to signify Chinese influence and traditions. BIG waste of time I think. Huge bamboo and cedar scaffolding had to be made to get all the way up there.
The 27th Shimazu lord had strong ties with Ryukyuan King in china and was also given a rare bamboo sprout from the Konan Bamboo Grove to plant. This forest is from that sprout.
We then toured the main house and had a traditional tea ceremony with Japanese sweet and powered green tea.. Our tour guide wore a traditional Kimono. Very nice! Directions for drinking your tea are:
1. Bow to show your appreciation.
2. Take sweet cake on plate and eat using the small stick provided, or your hand.
3. After eating cake, take bowl in right hand and place it on your left palm.
4. Turn bowl clockwise twice with right hand, then drink tea in 3 and a half sips. NOT FOUR! Express appreciation by making slurping sounds when finished.
5. Clean rim of bowl with right thumb and forefinger and wipe fingers on piece of paper.
6. Turn bowl counterclockwise twice and place down.
Show appreciation by closely observing tea ceremony bowl.
Whew! Tired after that one!
Japanese also LOVE tours and we usually try to avoid them. I thought this was a especially interesting one. Must have been a business trip or something.
I have such a soft heart for old men. I thought this picture was so cute!
Every Japanese attraction has it's gift shop. EVERY ONE! Anywhere you go, you are supposed to bring back a gift for those at home. You would go broke!
On the way back from the gardens, we stopped by Gion-no-Su Park to see a bridge from teh 1600s that w was originally over the main Kotsuki river, but during a great flood only 3 of the bridges remained. They were all moved to this park where fake constructed rivers now flow to preserve them.
That night we headed back to dolphin port so Ken could get some pizza. It was pretty good though! The next day was nuch nice weather so we decided it would be the day to see Sakurajima. Before we could go, I made everyone march over to see the morning market. No quite all the splendor the book made it out to be, especially after seeing the one in Okinawa! But I got some nice pictures all the same. And there was even a Starbucks in the arcade along the way. Great planning!
Octopus (tako) for Sale!
It is very rare to see a homeless person in Japan and Connie was so excited she took pictures of him.
Everywhere you look, people are in uniform, school children, travel agent people, suits all over! This guy is a bus station attendant. He didn't even know he was posing for this picture!
Next, we were off to Mount Sakurajima. At one point, this volcano was a complete island in the middle of Kinko Bay. In 1914, there was an erruption in which lava flowed from all there cones that connected the volcano to the Osumi Peninsula on the eastern side of the island. In the process it also engulfed an island that had once been 1/2 kilometer offshore. The eruption destroyed 1000 homes, 3 villages, and killed 35 people. Currently, Sakurakima is 52 km in circumference and has a population around 7,000. I just don't think people learn their lessons! Large eruptions have been recorded 1476, 1779, 1914, 1946 and the next one just around the corner we were told. Welcome to the Ring of Fire folks!
To get to the island (with our car!), we took the Ferry across. Only a 15 minute ferry ride, very quick, but once again, it was 2100 each way for our car...nothing is cheap.
Mt. Sakurajima is in the background.
There are currently 3 active cones; Ondake/Kitadake at 1117 meters tall (the highest and north cone), Nakadake (central), and Minamidake (south). Brandt is standing on Kitidake on the map.
Here's another picture of the craters from the top...
Even looking back towards Kagoshima and aroudn the island, you can see reminance of once active volcanic cones...
During the Typhoon rains of the summer months, they have to build levees around the island to stop the massive rain flow since there is nothing for the water to soak into. It also come in handy for lava flow I guess but look how many houses still on the island.
This was an especially interesting house as it was made from concrete and old ship propellers, windows, and other random parts. Cool driftwood carvings though!
Along the northern part of the island was supposed to be a beach. Definitely not our idea of a beach, but plenty of fishermen with these really long polls. Looks like it would be a lot of work to reel all that line in. They were catching small mackerol that they dip in tempura and eat whole (small fish) or larger ones they actually fillet and eat cooked.
If It were to fish though, this is definitely what outfit I would wear! Ingeinous Style! Pink trucker hat - CHECK - shorts - CHECK - baby doll shirt - CHECK - cowboy boots - CHECK, OK ready to fish!
And for your viewing pleasure, one standing up so you may view in complete splendor.
We also got some great pictures of the Red Tide for those of you who have never seen it in Oregon. It is basically an algae bloom due to depletion of oxygen in the water or presence of harmful toxins. Not always, but usually. Probably sewage dumped into the water...Yummy! No swimming for me.
On the Eastern side of the isaldn is the Kurokami Buried Tori Gate from the 1914 eruption. It used to lie on the isalnd that was 1/2 km offshore.
Along the penninsula area of the island, there were tons of Oyster pens all set up. It seems in every bay, there are oyster pens. I still am not a big fan of Japanese oysters though.
Not only is the island known for its lava and oysters but also for its HUGE radishes and sweet plums (which is Japan aren't so sweet).
The sweet plums have such a delicate skin that they will be ruined if ash gets on them. So each one is meticulously covered with a bag. Better be darn good plums with all that work! That is why fruit in Japan is so expensive, TLC. $20 for a mango!
We were told the Arimura Lava Observatory Point would be closed, but we came around the corner just in time to see AN ERUPTION!
And it kept going.....
We didn't know if we should be nervous, but these people weren't too concerned we we decided to take advantage of the photo-op.
Then it erupted again and the ladies started hiding, so we decided it was time to go...
After all that excitement, it was time to visit the Furusato Kanko Hotel for its sacred outdoor onsen with sweeping views of the water. This brings infinity pool to a whole new level! Since it is so beautiful, it is also considered a shrine (thus the gates upon entering the onsen, or rotemburo) so you are required to wear a yukata (cotton kimono) as you soak.
There was this cool old tree with a shrine and alter inside its roots.
Connie and Ken enjoying their soak!
Horrendous picture of me but at least you can see the backdrop was beautiful!
Brandt wanted to initially stay in this hotel overnight. Including food, it was $220 each person per night; but after he saw the pool, he was thankful we didn't.
After a hour or so of saoking, it gets pretty toasty so we decided it was time to take off. And once again the mountain had cleared off and you could get a good view of the 3 cones from down below.
Back on the ferry to Kagoshima, we were nice and relaxed from our soak. We ventured into town and had some delicious Vietnamese food from the owner who spoke wonderful English and had studied in New Jersey! Ken was so excited. Upon returning to the Ryokan, we correrced Nakazono-san to bring us to a local Izakaya so we could buy him a drink and try some local Sho-chu. I LOVE Sho-chu and especially the sweet kind (Imo-jochu) made from sweet potatoes here in Kagoshima. There is also a drier version distilled from barley made near Oita called mugi-jochu. At our little local Izakaya, we made plenty of friends.
The Izakaya was completely a local hangout as locals were allowed to keep their Sho-chu bottles there with their names on them for future use. Only 2000 yen a bottle, good deal!
Our newest friend, Asano-san, let us drink some of his Sho-chu and since we drank the whole bottle, we bought him another to remember us by!
Asano-san taught us to mix Sho-chu with half water and add lemons. Very delicious!
Connie really like her lemons. In fact, she used EVERY lemon in the entire place until they said "No more lemons!"
Connie also made some friends with "Kagoshima's most beautiful woman" (according to Asano-san). Hmmmm, OK. But she was only 39. NO! She looks like she is 20! I taught Connie how to play my game since Japanese women are so concerned about their appearance they will always say, "How old do you think I am?" So I like to humor them by saying about 20 years younger than I actually think they are. Flattery is the best way to make friends I figure. However, this "most beautiful woman" needs to get better at her arithmetic since she said she was 39 but then said she was born in 1969. Hmmmmmm, someone is lying!
And then "Kagoshima's most beautiful woman" tried to go for Brandt...I don't think so lady. Time for you to back off now!
And more friends next table over. This couple was so quite though.
The next morning, we were not feeling so hot after all that Sho-chu so we decided it best to forgo the tour of the sho-chu distillery and just head straight to the sand baths in Ibusuki for some R & R. On the way down we found a delicious Italian restaurant for some yummy pizza and pasta. Very unusual too as it utilized ocean views. So NOT Japan.
Headed down to the black lava sand beach at the raison d'etre (Tennen Sunamushi Kaikan) in our yukata.
I really didn't think I could lay still for 20 minutes in the hot sand being hung over with an upset stomach but it really did wonders. My stomach calmed down completely and I felt like a new women after my hot sand bath. Totally worth it for 800 yen.
They heat the sand by pour hot spring water over it, letting it soak into the sand, and then they dig your "crypt" for the next half hour.
You just walk up to a spot, they dig a hole, you lay in it and then hot sand is placed on top. I thought it would be claustrophobic, but it wasn't at all. I was just looking for the lady to come wipe the sweat from my brow like the book said. No such luck unfortunately.
From Ibusuki we headed home with a short stop at Lake Ikeda, a volcanic caldera lake. Supposedly is home to fresh water eel who grow up to 2 meters long and to Issy, a cousin of Nessy the Loch Ness Monster. Although we didn't see either! In the background is 922 meter tall dormant volcano Kaimon-dake, rumored to be the Mount Fuji of Kyushu for its symmetrical cone.
And last, but not least I present to you...Funny bicycle people! This girl was on her cell phone but I couldn't get a good picture with the cell phone, but the outfit speaks for itself. Perfect for a bike ride...
But this is definitely priceless!
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